Addison Eatery opens in Midtown

Nov 17

6:52 AM

By Elise Fields

Tagged: Cass Park

Stylishly casual Addison Eatery debuts on Woodward

Sylvia Rector, Detroit Free Press Restaurant Critic

Outside the new Addison Eatery's front windows, Woodward Avenue is a sea of construction barrels. But inside the dining room, the atmosphere is polished, relaxed and welcoming, and the dishes coming out of the kitchen are so appealing, it's easy to forgive any traffic issues.

Replacing the former Atlas Global Bistro, the Addison opened quietly Oct. 24 and is serving only breakfast and lunch for now. Dinner will be added after the restaurant's liquor license arrives in about six weeks, says owner Maurice Wiggins, founder and former owner of the Hudson Café downtown.

One welcome improvement at the Addison is the 40-car guest and residential parking lot located immediately behind the building. The previous restaurant's parking was more secluded and slightly farther down Charlotte, the side street.

Wiggins says he's excited to have created a place that's versatile and appeals to a wide range of guests. 

"We want it to be a destination for everyone," he says. "We want it to be casual, where you can come in for breakfast or lunch, or enjoy happy hours after work, or come for dinner and hear some live soft jazz in the dining room while you're enjoying a glass of wine."

Chef George Hankerson's menu of approachable American cuisine includes about a dozen sandwiches ($8-$14) — including the house-ground, Swiss-stuffed Addison Burger with caramelized onions, bacon and sunny-side egg — as well as stylish flatbreads ($10-$12), big salads ($10-$14) and entrees ($8-$16) including tilapia fish-and-chips and shrimp-and-salmon croquettes.

The breakfast menu is about evenly divided between sweet and savory plates ($8-$14). Choices range from stuffed berry French toast, sweet potato pancakes and wild mushroom omelets to house-made corned beef hash, bacon-wrapped shrimp over cheddar-laced grits, and Belgian waffles topped with crispy fried chicken wings.

At a recent weekend breakfast, servers in black dress pants and black collared shirts were prompt, attentive and professional.

The handsome dishes tasted as good as they looked.

The stuffed berry French toast, made with custard dipped Challah bread, were garnished with a mix of beautiful fresh berries and crisscrossed with lines of Melba sauce, made with berry purees reduced with bourbon. The accompanying pitcher of maple syrup had been warmed, and the butter was softly spreadable — both nice touches. 

The shrimp and grits featured four large shrimp wrapped in bacon, placed around the sides of a bowl of creamy cheddar cheese grits with corn kernels. Fresh spring-mix greens sat on top. The shrimp were plump and nicely cooked; if the dish lacked anything, some spicy element would have been a good addition.

The Addison isn't Wiggins' only project. He has ideas for places in Corktown and Midtown, as well as an upscale dinner spot downtown called Restaurant 55 at Griswold and West Lafayette, which he hopes to open in the next year.

But in the meantime, he's focused on making the Addison the best it can be. "We're not trying to do too much too fast. We will set ourselves apart with great guest service, and we will do it right." (3111 Woodward at Charlotte; 313-832-3111, and on Facebook.)

Contact Sylvia Rector: 313-222-5026 and [email protected] Follow her on Twitter @SylviaRector. Subscribe to her weekly newsletter